Tortola, British Virgin Islands

I’ve heard of the British Virgin Islands, in a sort of “Fantasy Island” or “Gilligan’s Island” kind of way, but never actually imagined what they were like.  Until today.  Paradise doesn’t even begin to describe the beauty, the serenity, and the tragedy lurking just under the surface.

The island of Tortola, for instance, was my first island of the trip. Today I spent the day touring it from top to bottom in a very rickety bus that belched smoke, squealed as it climbed hills and terrified us when going downhill. But all the while, the tour guide was smiling, generous, calm and capable. 

Tortola is a British Virgin Island, not an American one, so folks drive on the other side of the street.  And the way to announce that you are going around a big corner is to lay on the horn…honk, honk, honk…like a dozen times.  I felt like I was at home in NJ/NYC.  We started at sea level, and toured the beaches, and then started climbing to the highest of heights in the entire BVI, 1705 feet, Mt. Sage.  We stopped on the way for a ‘rum punch’ called a ‘pain killer’, and admired the resident chickens, roosters, lamb and goats.

We returned to the bus for the upward climb.  Each turn (honk, honk, honk) took us to new, breathtaking vistas – scenes you cannot believe are real, they are so beautiful.  At several points, you are looking at both the Caribbean Sea and the Atlantic Ocean, and so many islands in between. It is splendor above all things.

And then the tragedy side.  Hurricane Irma beat the shit out of BVI, as did Maria, and the devastation persists.  Because these are small, not rich islands, reconstruction is a big issue.  People who had homes are slowly rebuilding them into apartments. There are a lot of shipwrecked ships and abandoned homes.  And chickens…did I mention them?

But the strength of human-kind and the determination to survive and thrive shows here on Tortola.  The people are happy and busy, and are rebuilding their lives. They are thankful for the tourists and travelers, and I know I would love to return again.

And GUESS WHO I SAW?  The silent couple who hated each other from my very first cruise.  They have now evolved into the ‘sniping couple’. There they were, when we were boarding the cruise ship in San Juan.  I knew it was them by their voices…”What do you mean, you can’t find your passport??” he shouted?  “I’m looking!” she said, and then, “what did you do with it?”  They continued their shouting match, and I didn’t have the heart to introduce myself as their personal voyeur on their Caribbean adventures, so I turned and entered a different line.

I saw them on the cruise ship this morning.  I wondered why the hell these people are still together.  Here we are in paradise on earth, and they are quibbling over who got more bacon!  People – there is bacon enough for all!

Well, more tomorrow from the Caribbean.  Wish you were all here, and Arthur – one of these days we will retrace these steps and write our own stories!

LYTAM,

Grand